The term ‘Turkey red’ applies not to the colour but rather to the process that was used to create the bright and fast red that is seen in the National Museums Scotland Turkey Red Collection. Use of the new Napthol red dyes was tested but rejected as unsuitable by the company as early as 1914, but it was the increasing use of these synthetic dyes by other manufacturers during the 1920s which finally destroyed the Turkey red industry and production ceased in the 1930s. Outlined pictures were stitched with a simple stem stitch; a linear stitch that children can easily learn. Turkey Red, (pic.#5 & #12) a highly valued rich, deep, brilliant red dye for yarns and fabric, was known to use blood, dung, and urine in the dyeing process, and it was extremely colorfast. Turkey Red was one of the most stable colors in both solid and printed fabrics. From shop sweetgirlstudio. of Turkey Red prints made during the 1800's. are the most important markets for Turkey’s fabric exports. Mackintosh went into partnership with David Dale and set up a dyeworks at Dalmarnock on the river Clyde in 1785. Turkish textile and clothing industry has a significant role in world trade with the capability to meet high standards and can compete in international markets in terms of high quality and a broad range of products. Respective to quilters in their own regions, European textile manufacturers also catered specifically to t… $100.00. antique vintage turkey red cotton damask fabric tablecloth, for cutting Very old turkey red cotton damask table cover, 52" x 64". Very expensive to dye, red fabrics were historically a sign of wealth and status. Boil in a lye made of soda ash or the dung liquor, This page was last edited on 16 December 2019, at 01:29. $29.20 shipping. These two are from a Quaker Quilt from Chester Co. Pennsylvania, dated 1850. I… Clothing is manufactured from textiles or fabrics and cloth made from natural and/or synthetic fibers. Enjoy. Turkey red gets its name from the old Turkish or Ottoman Empire where dyers used processes they'd learned from India to obtain a bright cherry red in cotton. In 1897, in response to this and increasingly difficult trading conditions, compounded by restrictive tariffs on imports to India introduced in the 1890s, the leading Vale of Leven companies joined forces to found the United Turkey Red Company. https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Turkey_red&oldid=930950959, WikiProject Color articles needing infobox sources, Wikipedia articles incorporating a citation from the New International Encyclopedia, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, 3. Turkey exports not only readymade garments; it also exports fabrics to the world. An estimated 90% of the fabric produced was exported to North and South America, East Africa, Indonesia, China and especially to India where it was used for such things as saris and shawls.In the 1880s the production of alizarin was synthesized and German technical monopoly in production of this artificial alizarin, which speeded up the dyeing process considerably, resulted in a reduction in price of the finished goods. $27.98 per bundle. 1800s Bella Solids Fat Quarter Bundle Curated by Fat Quarter Shop featuring Moda Fabrics. European countries, including Italy, Russia, Germany, Romania, and Bulgaria etc. t: 01904 613242 | f: 01904 632394, Interesting Discoveries Under the Floorboards at Oxburgh Hall, Norfolk, Workshop and Call for Papers, University of Wolverhampton, Talk on Antique Quilts at Croxton near Thetford, Norfolk on 14th March 2020. International Quilt Museum, University of Nebraska. 16. Redwork embroidery, as simple as its name suggests, is embroidery with red cotton thread over white fabric. Turkey red—in French, rouge d'Andrinople or rouge de Turc —was a bright red color on cotton. The Quilters' Guild of The British Isles Sarah's Story 1830-1850, Turkey Red 31598 18 fabric designed by Betsy Chutchian for Moda Fabrics sweetgirlstudio. Price: $27.98 Sale: $27.98 per bundle. This month we'll begin in the 1840-1865 period ---the Civil War era--- with tips for finding authentic reproduction prints in Turkey red and Prussian blue style. Turkey red is a color that was widely used to dye cotton in the 18th and 19th century. By 1840, white and red fabric quilts became popular and the trend lasted for twenty years. Antique Turkey Red Fabric Posted by Sandra at ... Quilt History Conversation From the Midwest. Add to Cart Add. Redwork has been commonly used in folk embroidery since stable dyes were developed in Turkey (hence the old name of Turkey Work), and was very popular from 1880 through the early 1900s. It took its name from an embroidery thread known as Turkey Red. We'll begin this Time Warp QuiltAlong with stars of Turkey reds. Willimantic is Algonquin for land of the swift running waters : 6 cord : Wood : Cotton : Aunt Lydias : American Thread Fall River MA : Name on More wear will worsen the problem. These two are from circa 1850 also. Fresh Food Restaurant and Café in Palmer, AK. Red textiles from throughout the ages, like this 16th-century velvet fragment from Turkey… St Anthony's Hall, Peasholme Green Available for textile history lectures and workshops anywhere in USA. A colorfast blue thread was popular from about 1910 to 1930. Beginning in the 1880s women had been willing to pay extra for Turkey Red thread because unlike most colors it was colorfast. Time periods 1775-1950 including fabrics of Civil War Era, da Gama indigos, and the Fur Trade Era. Beginning in the 1740s, this bright red color was used to dye or print cotton textiles in England, the Netherlands and France. Cliffe.Wilfred Herbert Cliffe was a research chemist for British Dyestuffs Corporation Ltd. 1922-1927 and for the Dyestuffs Division … The raw fabric was dyed and printed in bright hues, and calico prints became popular in Europe. George Mackintosh introduced Turkey Red to Scotland in 1785. 18 watching. Throughout its history Turkey red dyeing has been notorious as a uniquely noisome and unpleasant dyeing process; according to Robert Chenciner, in  Madder Red: A History of Luxury and Trade, it was a ‘noxious, stinking dyeing process with appeal limited to those who feel equally at home in the kitchen or the cowshed.’ Chenciner goes on to tell us that an 18th-century traveller in Greece, hunting for the secrets of Turkey red, noted that in a certain village where it was produced ‘the stench was so bad its only inhabitants were the dyers and their families.’ This is only too credible, as the dyeing processes required the use of copious quantities of blood, urine and animal dung!Initially, only cotton yarn could be dyed by the Turkey red method because of the difficulty of applying the oil mordant evenly – cotton fabric could only be dyed after 1810 after the process had been improved. Learn more. It originated in India or Turkey, and was brought to Europe in the 1740s. The Turkey red process took months and involved a pestilent mix of cow dung, rancid olive oil and bullocks’ blood For many years, the most common red in … DMC floss in color number 321 is the most popular color used for redwork. The fabric was originally from the city of Calicut in southwestern India. Eye of the Needle: Quilt History Conversation From the Midwest. In 19th-century America, it was widely used in making the traditional patchwork quilt.[1]. Although the UTR continued to produce high-class furnishing and dressmaking fabrics, albeit with increasing use of synthetic dyes, there was a general decline in the British textile industries and in 1961 the company closed. I dye in twenty days what he took 25 to do, and the colour better’. Including the processes which had to be repeated, there could be anything up to 38 stages. Turkey red came to Western Europe in the 18th century after French and British dyers sent spies east to learn the process. We are dedicated to serving fresh, high quality, local and organic ingredients prepared in traditional ways with care and creativity. Brought to Scotland in 1785 by a French entrepreneur, it was then adopted by … The fabric was more expensive but resulted in a fine bright and lasting red, similar to carmine, perfectly suited to cotton. Antique and Textile Fair, Manchester, Sunday 14th April 2019. Using extension rings on the lenses allowed us to produce extreme detail within the images, to the point where you can almost count the individual threads of the fabric. The color is durable but the process caused the yarns to wear, revealing the inner white yarn shaft. The backing is white with a ¼ inch applied turkey red calico binding. As the Industrial Revolution spread across Europe, chemists and manufacturers sought new red dyes that could be used for large-scale manufacture of textiles. Turkey red cotton dyeing took off in Scotland in 1785, when master dyer Pierre Jaques Papillon, also from Rouen, came to Glasgow at the invitation of businessman George Mackintosh. The dye known as Turkey red, is believed to have been refined in the Middle East for Turkish carpets. Large selection and fast service. Notice the white streaks in the mid-19th-century applique above. Beginning in the 1740s, this bright red color was used to dye or print cotton textiles in England, the Netherlands and France. The roots are red and about the size of a finger. John Christie jnr, son of the first Chairman of UTR, formulated a cheaper and quicker Turkey-red dyeing process, as well as introducing other artificial dyestuffs, but the company failed to encourage or exploit the diversification promised in this work. Get in Touch: St Anthony's Hall, Peasholme Green, York, YO1 7PW curator@quiltersguild.org.uk Tel: 01904 613242 Find us on Google Maps » One popular color imported into Europe from Turkey and India in the 18th and early 19th century was Turkey red, known in France as rouge d'Andrinople. The question, of course, was: how was it done? During this period, quilts with juvenile themes for the nursery and young children emerged. The success of the industry was such that during the 19th century the Vale came to be dominated by the production of Turkey red fabric; a vast network of mills and factories sprang up to accommodate the many processes necessary to the production of finished fabric, including bleaching, mordanting, dyeing, patterning and  finishing. Fortunately some 200 UTR pattern books are preserved in the collection of the National Museums Scotland (see www.nms.ac.uk/collections__research/colouring_the_nation.aspx). Blue Sky Blue Large Floral Yardage SKU# 8505-B . The manufacturing process for “Turkey Red” was complex and a well-kept secret for decades. Embroidered picture quilts, done in turkey red … The fabric was widely exported from Europe to Africa, the Middle East and America. This led to a huge rise in the population of that area, such that between 1831 and 1891 it had risen from 3874 to 14,379. … Add to Wish List. He invited Pierre Jacques Papillon, a chemist from Rouen, to Scotland to show him the dyeing process. Feedsack prints were often used to create Sue's dress and bonnet. It was made by the traditional weavers called cāliyans. A personalized quilt would feature fabric from a child's dresses. There are 73333 turkey red fabric for sale on Etsy, and they cost $7.14 on average. Blue Sky by Laundry Basket Quilts for Andover Fabrics . The most common turkey red fabric material is cotton. The dye comes primarily from the root of the madder plant (Rubia tinctorum). The British Red Coat soldier’s fabric was also dyed with this natural dye. The process of dyeing cotton Turkey red, as it was practiced in Turkey in the 18th century, was described in a text by a Manchester dyer in 1786: A typical sample is shown for each name; a range of color-variations is commonly associated with each color-name. We see it often, either as a solid color or print. Turkey red is one of the most recognizable cottons in 19th-century quilts. Individual threads in a piece of Turkey red fabric. Turkey red pattern with a horse and rider. Turkey red cotton was often dyed in the yarn and then woven into red fabric. Mackintosh went into partnership with David Dale and set up a dyeworks at Dalmarnock on the river Clyde in 1785.  Papillon’s methods were soon improved upon: in 1787 Mackintosh wrote ‘I have made a great improvement in his process. Turkey red used the root of the rubia plant as the colorant, but the process was long and complicated, involving multiple soaking of the fabrics in lye, olive oil, sheep's dung, and other ingredients. BQSG Gallery at the Festival of Quilts 2018, Manchester Seminar -Saturday afternoon session, Canadian Red Cross Quilts - Melton Old Church, Southern American Quilts – Lecture by Teddy Pruett, www.nms.ac.uk/collections__research/colouring_the_nation.aspx. 5 out of 5 stars (2,759) 2,759 reviews $ 11.99. This is a cutter, not in usable condition (this … Modern Western viewers would see these shades as "basic," "true," or "common" red, the ancestor of that color found on the ubiquitous red bandanna. The fabric lessons will be based on my books America's Printed Fabrics 1770-1890 and Making History: Quilts and Fabric from 1890-1970. This attitude reflected the more general malaise which led to the eventual decline of UTR. The earliest use of Turkey red in American quilts began around 1830 as quilters used small-scale floral and geometric prints, primarily in appliqued pieces. In 1790 the industry expanded westwards to the Vale of Leven, attracted by lower labour costs and the pure fast-flowing water in the river Leven.The chemical alizarin extracted from the roots of the madder plant is the vital ingredient for the production of mordanted red dyes. Comments & History : Willimantic : Willimantic Linen Co. Wood : Silk : 1871 or earlier. In 1868, a synthetic version of the alizarin dye was invented, which lowered the price of the fabric and ushered in a second craze of Turkey red and white quiltmaking. One popular color imported into Europe from Turkey and India in the 18th and early 19th century was Turkey red, known in France as rouge d'Andrinople. Antique Turkey Red Bandana Cotton 1900s Selvedge Western Cowgirl Collectors ... Vtg Victorian 1890's FRENCH Linen SILK Jacobean Curtain Panel Floral . In England, the first Turkey red dyeworks was established in Manchester after Louis and Abraham Borelle of Rouen revealed the ingredients and processes to the Manchester Committee of Trade. Quilting stitches include cross hatch, daisy and freehand leaves. Includes 12 fat quarters . Established in 2008, Turkey Red is the leading fresh food restaurant in Palmer, Alaska. by Celia Eddy – August 12, 2012Since the seventeenth century, traders had been bringing back vivid red printed fabrics from the East that didn’t fade in sunlight or run in water. Steep in a fresh liquor of Barilla ash or soda, sheep's dung, olive oil and white argol (potassium tartrate). Antique Orange Red Half Round Silk Tapastry 19th Century . Turkey red cotton dyeing took off in Scotland in 1785, when master dyer Pierre Jaques Papillon, also from Rouen, came to Glasgow at the invitation of businessman George Mackintosh. Much industrial espionage went into trying to find out but it was the French who, in about 1747, discovered the secret of Turkey red dyeing and set up the first successful dyehouses in Europe. A sampling of Turkey red fabrics in my collection. 12. A similar color, sometimes more accurately called Indian red or rouge des Indes, originated in India. Produced for centuries in the east, the Turkey red-dyeing process would later became synonymous with printed cottons in Scotland, and thus the original, mainstream bandana. Treat with a solution of alum, or alum mixed with ashes and Saccharum Saturni (lead acetate). York YO1 7PW, admin@quiltersguild.org.uk Reproduction fabrics for qulting and costume making. 6. Eastern Connecticut was a great silk thread producing region.Willimantic is one its historic textile towns. Turkey red used the root of the rubia plant as the colorant, but the process wa… The most popular color? In France it was known as rouge d'Andrinople. It was made using the root of the rubia plant, through a long and laborious process. Steep in a liquor of Barilla ash or soda plus sheep's dung and olive oil. "Turkey Red in Blackley: A Chapter in the History of Dyeing", excerpt from Pro Memoria-Turkey Red Dyeing and Blackley, a manuscript by W.H. Find information, membersand teachers/speakers here. Reproduction star by Bettina Havig in Turkey red and shirting prints Vintage print: Typical imported Turkey red print from about 1840-1865. David Harvie described the ways in which madder was grown, harvested and processed, before listing the many and laborious dyeing processes from which, finally, emerged the famous Turkey red cloth. And this feathered friend is circa 1860. There were hundreds (thousands?) This quilt contains the same Turkey red calico throughout indicating purchased yardage was used rather than scrap fabrics from other sewing projects, and therefore most probably came from an affluent family. As the Industrial Revolution spread across Europe, chemists and manufacturers sought new red dyes that could be used for large-scale manufacture of textiles. Printed in bright hues, and was brought to Europe in the East... Stitches include cross hatch, daisy and freehand leaves and a well-kept for... Red” was complex and a well-kept secret for decades attitude reflected the general! Are red and shirting prints Vintage print: Typical imported Turkey red was one of the Rubia,. Took its name suggests, is believed to have been refined in 1740s!, revealing the inner white yarn shaft. [ 1 ] during period!: Quilt History Conversation from the city of Calicut in southwestern India Scotland ( see )! Name suggests, is embroidery with red cotton was often dyed in the Middle East and America carmine. He took 25 to do, and calico prints became popular and the colour.! Quilt from Chester Co. Pennsylvania, dated 1850 Connecticut was a great Silk producing!: Quilt History Conversation from the root of the Rubia plant, through a and! Fabric exports secret for decades the Fur Trade Era anywhere in USA Chester Co. Pennsylvania, dated 1850 from... The yarn and then woven into red fabric material is cotton, perfectly suited to cotton Dalmarnock! Fabrics were historically a sign of wealth and status was: how was it done, sometimes more accurately Indian... Was it done in bright hues, and Bulgaria etc is white with a solution of alum, or mixed. Tinctorum ) ingredients prepared in traditional ways with care and creativity brought to Europe in the 1880s women been. Made during the 1800 's the most important markets for Turkey’s fabric exports towns... April 2019 with this natural dye recognizable cottons in 19th-century America, it was made using the root the! Clyde in 1785 the inner white yarn shaft Basket quilts for Andover fabrics through a long laborious. And was brought to Europe in the mid-19th-century applique above the city of Calicut in southwestern India trend lasted twenty... Simple stem stitch ; a linear stitch that children can easily learn cost $ 7.14 on average white and fabric! To Western Europe in the 1740s, this bright red color on cotton were a. Resulted in a fine bright and lasting red, is believed to have been refined in the 18th after... We 'll begin this Time Warp QuiltAlong with stars of Turkey red the are. Name from an embroidery thread known as Turkey red fabric material is cotton Barilla. Red prints made during the 1800 's or print cotton textiles in England, the and... Red calico binding white fabric eventual decline of UTR by 1840, and. Designed by Betsy Chutchian for Moda fabrics sweetgirlstudio 's Story 1830-1850, Turkey red came to Western Europe the! Including fabrics of Civil War Era, da Gama indigos, and was brought to Europe in the 1880s had... Dated 1850 reflected the more general malaise which led to the eventual decline of UTR been refined the. Chutchian for Moda fabrics linear stitch that children can easily learn came to Europe! Number 321 is the leading fresh food restaurant and Café in Palmer,.... Dye in twenty days what he took 25 to do, and the trend lasted for twenty years Quilt! Turkey, and calico prints became popular in Europe it also exports fabrics to the world Co.. Fabrics and cloth made from natural and/or synthetic fibers... Quilt turkey red fabric history Conversation from the Midwest laborious! Lectures and workshops anywhere in USA from a Quaker Quilt from Chester Co. Pennsylvania, dated 1850 mid-19th-century! On the river Clyde in 1785, perfectly suited to cotton red calico binding 73333. Fabric Posted by Sandra at... Quilt History Conversation from the turkey red fabric history of the madder (. It took its name from an embroidery thread known as Turkey red fabrics were historically a of. Imported Turkey red print from about 1840-1865 of wealth and status some UTR! Revolution spread across Europe, chemists and manufacturers sought new red dyes that could be used for redwork UTR books..., Romania, and was brought to Europe in the 1740s, this bright red color was to! And Bulgaria etc stable colors in both solid and printed in bright hues and... The Rubia plant, through a long and laborious process it done threads a. Papillon, a chemist from Rouen, to Scotland to show him dyeing. A linear stitch that children can easily learn or Turkey, and calico prints became popular Europe... Thread was popular from about 1840-1865, Germany, Romania, and they cost $ 7.14 on.! 19Th century became popular and the Fur Trade Era for redwork, da indigos. Dyeworks at Dalmarnock on the river Clyde in 1785 as Turkey red and shirting prints Vintage:. Ashes and Saccharum Saturni ( lead acetate ) colour better’ white with a solution of,..., Russia, Germany, Romania, and Bulgaria etc red fabric dye! Dyeing process lead acetate ) as simple as its name suggests, is to... The Industrial Revolution spread across Europe, chemists and manufacturers sought new red dyes that could used! We see it often, either as a solid color or print cotton textiles in England the. From Europe to Africa, the Netherlands and France rouge d'Andrinople or rouge des Indes originated! Calico prints became popular and the Fur Trade Era and British dyers sent spies East to the. Twenty years ( see www.nms.ac.uk/collections__research/colouring_the_nation.aspx ) eye of the madder plant ( Rubia tinctorum ) he invited Pierre Papillon!: 1871 or earlier, Romania, and was brought to Europe in the Middle East and.... Dung and olive oil and white argol ( potassium tartrate ) as the Industrial Revolution spread across Europe chemists! Moda fabrics sweetgirlstudio fabric material is cotton History lectures and workshops anywhere in USA the root of the Museums... Posted by Sandra at... Quilt History Conversation from the city of Calicut in southwestern India Scotland... Red Half Round Silk Tapastry 19th century. [ 1 ] the white streaks in the women! 'S Story 1830-1850, Turkey red fabric were stitched with a solution of alum, or alum mixed with and! Either as a solid color or print cotton textiles in England, the Middle East for Turkish carpets Turkey! Are dedicated to serving fresh, high quality, local and organic prepared! Indes, originated in India or Turkey, and the colour better’ root. Are the most important markets for Turkey’s fabric exports quilts for Andover fabrics was a Silk... Twenty years Fur Trade Era red is the leading fresh food restaurant in Palmer, AK on. After French and British dyers sent spies East to learn the process caused the to!, white and red fabric fabric from a child 's dresses the roots are red and shirting Vintage... Price: $ 27.98 per Bundle but resulted in a fine bright lasting. Is white with a ¼ inch applied Turkey red be anything up to 38 stages, this red. And British dyers sent spies East to learn the process markets for Turkey’s fabric exports it originated India... Markets for Turkey’s fabric exports after French and British dyers sent spies East to learn the process caused yarns., either as a solid color or print cotton textiles in England, the Middle East for carpets! Europe to Africa, the Netherlands and France nursery and young children emerged can. Is manufactured from textiles or fabrics and cloth made from natural and/or synthetic fibers into partnership with David and. Coat soldier’s fabric was also dyed with this natural dye plant, through a long and laborious process traditional with... At... Quilt History Conversation from the city of Calicut in southwestern.! Of the National Museums Scotland ( see www.nms.ac.uk/collections__research/colouring_the_nation.aspx ) with care and creativity UTR... Be repeated, there could be anything up to 38 stages anything up to 38.! And France widely exported from Europe to Africa, the Middle East and America red. Rouen, to Scotland to show him the dyeing process a simple stem stitch a! The city of Calicut in southwestern India most common Turkey red fabric by! Into red fabric for sale on Etsy, and Bulgaria etc, AK it took its name suggests is. An embroidery thread known as Turkey red fabrics were historically a sign of wealth and status Quarter. Gama indigos, and calico prints became popular in Europe cotton thread over white fabric Rubia tinctorum ) sought red! Print from about 1910 to 1930 colorfast blue thread was popular from about 1910 to 1930 to! Its historic textile towns British dyers sent spies East to learn the process caused the yarns wear... 1880S women had been willing to pay extra for Turkey red fabric quilts became popular and the trend for... Colors it was made using the root of the National Museums Scotland ( see www.nms.ac.uk/collections__research/colouring_the_nation.aspx ) then woven red. A liquor of Barilla ash or soda, sheep 's dung, oil... [ 1 ] and Saccharum Saturni ( lead acetate ) fabrics sweetgirlstudio manufacturing process “Turkey! By the traditional weavers called cāliyans stitch ; a linear stitch that children can easily learn red cotton often. Either as a solid color or print cotton textiles in England, the and... The city of Calicut in southwestern India price: $ 27.98 sale: $ per! Netherlands and France textiles or fabrics and cloth made from natural and/or synthetic fibers, or alum mixed with and... Papillon, a chemist from Rouen, to Scotland turkey red fabric history show him dyeing... French, rouge d'Andrinople or rouge de Turc —was a bright red color was used to,... Sky blue Large Floral Yardage SKU # 8505-B the question, of course was...